Frank (aka Francesco) is my aunt's eccentric Italian friend who lives nearby. He took us out for an adventure in his little silver convertible.
I wasn't feeling too well at the start of the day (my aunt and I had gone to church in Assisi, which was hot and packed with tourists), and I had decided not to come on the planned trip to Gubbio. Frank met us at the giardinetti in Assisi and the following conversation ensued, word for word.
Me: I"m sorry, I'm really tired, I don't think I can go.
Frank: What?! Why!?
Me: ... I'm tired.
Frank: Maria, you can't do this to me!
Me: ...
Frank: You can't!
Me: ... Besides, I've already been to Gubbio.
Frank: We're not going to Gubbio!!!!
Me: ... Where are we going?
Frank: The CAVES OF FRASASSI!!!!! This will be like nothing you have ever seen! It will be the BEST DAY OF YOUR LIFE!
How could I argue with this? I caved (ha. ha.) and went along for the ride. It might not have been the BEST DAY OF MY LIFE, but I have to admit, it was pretty good.
We drove leisurely through the mountains, the convertible top down and the sunny wind blowing through my hair. The caves were amazing - unlike anything I had ever seen before - mysterious and awe-inspiring. The silence, the cold, the immense space in the caverns, the frozen mirror-reflections of stalactites and stalagmites, the dramatic lighting, and strange, distant echoes of sounds made a strong impression on me.
On our way home, we stopped for dinner at a tiny mountain-top village called Genge. We ate at this wonderful restaurant: http://www.locandadelpapa.it/gallery.html. It was lovely!
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Daytrip with Elisa
Elisa, who is about my age, lives in Assisi and works for a museum there. She is learning English, and we work together a few times a week. She's reading Edgar Allen Poe right now, which had been a great excuse for my to rediscover stories like The Red Death that terrified me when I was in grade school.
We went on daytrip together to Orvieto, so that Elisa could practice being an English tour guide (and also just for fun). Elisa picked me up at 11, and we drove to her boyfriend's farm, which he owns with his two older brothers. We sampled their home-made sausage and salami, and drank some cold white wine. Delicious!
After the hour's drive to Orvieto, we wandered up and down the narrow streets, seeing everything worth seeing (except the underground Etruscan city, which I would definitely like to see in the future...). The cathedral, Saint Patrick's Well, the rocca (which has been turned into a public garden), the many churches, all so beautiful.
Orvieto is a medieval town, built on the top of cliff. It is tiny and reminded me a lot of Toledo. There are many good shops and wonderful gelateria by the cathedral.
We're planning more daytrips like this, maybe to Lake Trasimeno or some of the other small towns nearby.
We went on daytrip together to Orvieto, so that Elisa could practice being an English tour guide (and also just for fun). Elisa picked me up at 11, and we drove to her boyfriend's farm, which he owns with his two older brothers. We sampled their home-made sausage and salami, and drank some cold white wine. Delicious!
After the hour's drive to Orvieto, we wandered up and down the narrow streets, seeing everything worth seeing (except the underground Etruscan city, which I would definitely like to see in the future...). The cathedral, Saint Patrick's Well, the rocca (which has been turned into a public garden), the many churches, all so beautiful.
Orvieto is a medieval town, built on the top of cliff. It is tiny and reminded me a lot of Toledo. There are many good shops and wonderful gelateria by the cathedral.
We're planning more daytrips like this, maybe to Lake Trasimeno or some of the other small towns nearby.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Visits
My cousin and his wife visited for two nights. They are from NYC and on their honeymoon. I was very happy to see them! They are both tall and beautiful, always clad in black, and I felt like I was in the company of two celebrities.
I picked them up at the station, and they had a good sleep at the house before venturing out the next morning to see Assisi.
We had a lunch at a terrace restaurant with amazing views.
We visited a few of the many churches in Assisi and bought some souvenirs in the Basilica. The weather was crazy. Sitting on the stone front of Santa Chiara, Zenon and I soaked up the bright sun while scattered rain drops fell on us and polkadotted the piazza. Clouds hurried across the vista, their shadows rushing below, lighting and darkening the land. Looking up at the Rocca, bright white against black clouds, we could see it fall into shadow and then brighten again. Magnificent.
We made dinner at home, a wonderful tomato pasta by my cousin, along with salad from the garden, stuffed tomato appetizers from the market, Umbrian white wine, and German chocolate. Yum.
I picked them up at the station, and they had a good sleep at the house before venturing out the next morning to see Assisi.
We had a lunch at a terrace restaurant with amazing views.
We visited a few of the many churches in Assisi and bought some souvenirs in the Basilica. The weather was crazy. Sitting on the stone front of Santa Chiara, Zenon and I soaked up the bright sun while scattered rain drops fell on us and polkadotted the piazza. Clouds hurried across the vista, their shadows rushing below, lighting and darkening the land. Looking up at the Rocca, bright white against black clouds, we could see it fall into shadow and then brighten again. Magnificent.
We made dinner at home, a wonderful tomato pasta by my cousin, along with salad from the garden, stuffed tomato appetizers from the market, Umbrian white wine, and German chocolate. Yum.
The Daily Run
Running on a mountain is hard work, but it pays off. If I run far enough, I'm rewarded with the most beautiful views, looking out across valleys and hills, with their golden villas and thick forests, towards distant mountains and glorious sunsets.
I run up and down so many hills that I've finally become used to them. There are two in particular that are very difficult, but they add a challenge that I like. One comes right at the end of my run, which forces me, out of pride, to always finish strong.
I run through thick forest, meadows, and hayfields. Sometimes I will encounter a group of white cattle or sheep with lambs in tow, their bells clinking in the soft evening air.
Puppy likes to run with me, although she has a hard time keeping up. When I get back to the house, we like to play together. I chase her until she rolls onto her back and I can pet her, then she darts away again.
I stretch in front of the house, bathed in the sunset light, looking down from our mountain top across an open field and then out, out, out, into the hills and mountains and sky.
I run up and down so many hills that I've finally become used to them. There are two in particular that are very difficult, but they add a challenge that I like. One comes right at the end of my run, which forces me, out of pride, to always finish strong.
I run through thick forest, meadows, and hayfields. Sometimes I will encounter a group of white cattle or sheep with lambs in tow, their bells clinking in the soft evening air.
Puppy likes to run with me, although she has a hard time keeping up. When I get back to the house, we like to play together. I chase her until she rolls onto her back and I can pet her, then she darts away again.
I stretch in front of the house, bathed in the sunset light, looking down from our mountain top across an open field and then out, out, out, into the hills and mountains and sky.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
A Good Day
What did I do yesterday? A little bit of everything.
8
Woke up and ate breakfast of espresso and yogurt.
8-9
Worked in the garden, planting and weeding and watering, with Puppy standing guard.
9-11
Cleaned the house, aired everything out, made everything pretty and nice and organized Maria-fashion.
11
Lunch of omelette with broccoli and pancetta.
11-12
Long walk with Puppy, picking flowers and arranging bouquets for the house.
12-2
Finished reading Changing, Liv Ullman's autobiography. So good!
2-5
Drove down to Assisi and wandered through the different churches, sketching statues, frescoes, and buildings. Had my picture taken by an Asian girl who thought I was artistic. Went grocery shopping and bought fruit and vegetables and cereal!
5-8
Cleaned some more and cooked pasta and potatoes and made a salad and sang loudly to Vienna Teng.
8-9
Worked in the garden again, taming all the tomatoes.
9-11
Drove to the station to pick up the visitors.
Perfect day.
8
Woke up and ate breakfast of espresso and yogurt.
8-9
Worked in the garden, planting and weeding and watering, with Puppy standing guard.
9-11
Cleaned the house, aired everything out, made everything pretty and nice and organized Maria-fashion.
11
Lunch of omelette with broccoli and pancetta.
11-12
Long walk with Puppy, picking flowers and arranging bouquets for the house.
12-2
Finished reading Changing, Liv Ullman's autobiography. So good!
2-5
Drove down to Assisi and wandered through the different churches, sketching statues, frescoes, and buildings. Had my picture taken by an Asian girl who thought I was artistic. Went grocery shopping and bought fruit and vegetables and cereal!
5-8
Cleaned some more and cooked pasta and potatoes and made a salad and sang loudly to Vienna Teng.
8-9
Worked in the garden again, taming all the tomatoes.
9-11
Drove to the station to pick up the visitors.
Perfect day.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Cooking with Paula
Jenny hired an Italian chef to cook for us during the program. Paula lives in Santa Maria degli Angeli, and she came every weekday during the program to concoct delicacies like lemon pasta, zucchini fritters, and almond cookies.
She needed all the help she could get to feed the crowd of students, teachers, family, and friends that gathered for lunch each day. Kathy was always in the kitchen, and we would all drop in during the day to lend a hand and steal a taste of whatever was cooking. Delicious...
I think my favorite dessert was the panna cotta, a plain custard topped with frozen berries:

The Rocca of Assisi
Many Italian towns, especially in Umbria and Tuscany, have a palace (really a castle) built on the highest point of the town, called the Rocca. Assisi's is particularly striking, and has a long history (Saint Francis helped attack it with his fellow citizens of the lower town).
We went to the Rocca during our first week here. We climbed up the many winding staircases (which Kathy was afraid to climb), explored the long, narrow passageways, and discovered some fabulous views from the top of the towers.
Behind me is the Basilica di San Francesco, seen from a great great height:
I love running around these castles like a little kid, imagining how it would be to play a massive game of hide and seek or laser-tag. So magic.
We went to the Rocca during our first week here. We climbed up the many winding staircases (which Kathy was afraid to climb), explored the long, narrow passageways, and discovered some fabulous views from the top of the towers.
Behind me is the Basilica di San Francesco, seen from a great great height:
I love running around these castles like a little kid, imagining how it would be to play a massive game of hide and seek or laser-tag. So magic.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Estathe Means Summer
I feel it is only just that I dedicate a post to Estathe. It has saved my life multiple times.
Estathe, a play on words literally meaning "summer tea," is solved in every bar and alimentari. A small cup of strong, iced tea, it is the perfect thing to relieve the heat when walking up and down hilly cobblestoned streets under the beating Italian sun. The straw is thin, so you can only take small sips, making the tea last longer and be more satisfying.
We learned about Estathe from our classy Italian friend Alessia. We spotted her carrying one in town and had to know what it was. She always has one on hand, and is very annoyed if anything deprives her of her cold treat.
We love Estathe. ♥
Estathe, a play on words literally meaning "summer tea," is solved in every bar and alimentari. A small cup of strong, iced tea, it is the perfect thing to relieve the heat when walking up and down hilly cobblestoned streets under the beating Italian sun. The straw is thin, so you can only take small sips, making the tea last longer and be more satisfying.
We learned about Estathe from our classy Italian friend Alessia. We spotted her carrying one in town and had to know what it was. She always has one on hand, and is very annoyed if anything deprives her of her cold treat.
We love Estathe. ♥
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Bevagna
Two days ago we went to a medieval festival in a the nearby town of Bevagna.
The entire town had transformed itself into a market place of swords, candles, traditional foods, leather-bound books, farm animals, spiced wines, wild boar, minstrels, and (fascinatingly) silk worms.
The main piazza is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in Italy:
The day was hot and the tiny town was crowded, mostly with Italian tourists, but we enjoyed our wandering.
The entire town had transformed itself into a market place of swords, candles, traditional foods, leather-bound books, farm animals, spiced wines, wild boar, minstrels, and (fascinatingly) silk worms.
The main piazza is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in Italy:
The day was hot and the tiny town was crowded, mostly with Italian tourists, but we enjoyed our wandering.
Monday, June 28, 2010
First Excursion into Assisi
My trusty pink umbrella and I re-established our happy relationship on Sunday:
Yes, it rained during our first trip into Assisi, but at least the thunder storm, with its giant black clouds and lightning, made a dramatic backdrop against the white churches and golden fields.
Assisi is a hilltop town, with a castle at the very top. The town itself is long and narrow, gleaming like a white jewel on the side of the mountain, with the abbey's arches gracefully extending. In fact, most of the stone is colored pale rose, which is so lovely.
Olive groves surround the Chiesa di Santa Chiara, whose cloistered nuns only come out to pick the olives, and the central piazza features a temple to Minerva, which was converted into a Catholic church but retains its white columns. We also saw the Church of Saint Francis, whose frescoes are ancient and beautiful.
The sun came out in the end, but sadly, only just in time for us to say goodbye to the New Yorkers.
Here we are with the girls and our Italian friend Alessia:
Here we are with the girls and our Italian friend Alessia:
Assisi is a gorgeous town, very clean and well preserved, and though I didn't see as much of it on this trip as I would have liked, I can already tell that it is a special place. The view!
Saturday, June 26, 2010
The First Week in Assisi
Since arriving in Assisi, I've spent my days rambling across the Umbrian hills, gathering flowers, playing with Puppy (who is cute, but not a puppy), eating good Italian food, helping in the kitchen, researching Greek vase painting, reading Iris Murdoch, discussing Romantic poetry, meeting all sorts of fascinating people, and partaking in late-night freezer-cleaning Lady Gaga dance parties.
We're staying in a beautiful converted schoolhouse perched high up on Mount Subasio, in the middle of a national park, very isolated and quiet as it is about 20 minutes from Assisi. The house is large and rambling, with books, flowers, food, and comfy nooks and crannies everywhere.
Kathy and I agree that it is very much a Diana Wynne Jones type of house, aka the best kind.
My corner in the attic:
The view from my skylight:
Balconies, terraces, and gardens surround the house, and our next-door neighbors are a cemetery and church, whose bells ring every hour. We can also hear other church bells drifting across from the facing hills.
The house has marvelous views, both west and east, and the hills, covered with yellow broom, fade in layers back towards the blue sky.
Kathy spends most of her time in the kitchen, cooking and baking and blogging. I stop in to help her - or just to share a taste of whatever she's whipping up.
Caught in the act:
Watching Chiara make tiramisu:
The people are wonderful. We've met a lovely family from New York (whose two young daughters are gorgeous and hilarious), the Italian cook (who is formidable, but has a heart of gold), some ridiculous Italian boys (who help in the kitchen and keep us laughing all day long), two classy Italian girls about my age, and of course, the crazy family that runs this house.
Today, I woke up early and had espresso and Paula's breakfast cake with everyone.
Then, we had a mini-class on the history of Assisi and ate a lunch of white lasagna, salad, and chocolate cake. This afternoon we're finally going to explore Assisi, and then after a good dinner, we'll watch A Room with a View.
Loving life!
We're staying in a beautiful converted schoolhouse perched high up on Mount Subasio, in the middle of a national park, very isolated and quiet as it is about 20 minutes from Assisi. The house is large and rambling, with books, flowers, food, and comfy nooks and crannies everywhere.
Kathy and I agree that it is very much a Diana Wynne Jones type of house, aka the best kind.
My corner in the attic:
The view from my skylight:
Balconies, terraces, and gardens surround the house, and our next-door neighbors are a cemetery and church, whose bells ring every hour. We can also hear other church bells drifting across from the facing hills.
The house has marvelous views, both west and east, and the hills, covered with yellow broom, fade in layers back towards the blue sky.
Kathy spends most of her time in the kitchen, cooking and baking and blogging. I stop in to help her - or just to share a taste of whatever she's whipping up.
Caught in the act:
Watching Chiara make tiramisu:
The people are wonderful. We've met a lovely family from New York (whose two young daughters are gorgeous and hilarious), the Italian cook (who is formidable, but has a heart of gold), some ridiculous Italian boys (who help in the kitchen and keep us laughing all day long), two classy Italian girls about my age, and of course, the crazy family that runs this house.
Today, I woke up early and had espresso and Paula's breakfast cake with everyone.
Then, we had a mini-class on the history of Assisi and ate a lunch of white lasagna, salad, and chocolate cake. This afternoon we're finally going to explore Assisi, and then after a good dinner, we'll watch A Room with a View.
Loving life!
Roma con mia sorella
Revisiting Rome with Kathy was unreal. We were both exhausted from our long journeys, and seeing sights like the Coliseum with my little sister by my side was strange, like a dream.
We had some trouble meeting up in the airport. When I got to Rome, I gathered my baggage and then headed over to Kathy's terminal (we flew separately) to meet her at her baggage claim.
Now begins a typical tale of European inefficiency and ridiculousness. I arrived outside the baggage claim to the sight of bright red signs declaring that no one could enter. I couldn't even see inside, because the glass sliding doors had been painted an opaque gray. What risk they thought I would pose to the baggage, I do not know.
I had told Kathy to wait for me right next to her carousel, and like a good little sister, she did just that. For two hours. While I waited outside. I tried to sneak in, but the policeman caught me and had zero sympathy for my situation.
Kathy and I had no way of contacting each other, so all my tactic was pure stubborness - I stood outside those sliding doors and stared at the policeman each time they opened. For two hours. And guess what? I broke him down. He finally let me in, and I immediately found Kathy.
Ridiculous.
After that, we had a long and difficult journey to our hostel from the airport. We were so tired, and navigating the train, the left luggage, the atms, and the map was almost more than we could handle.
But we persevered and made it safe and sound to our hostel, near the Termini train station. I took Kathy out that night to see the Trevi fountain and the Coliseum and to try some gelato.
The next day, we went on a walking tour of the city, stopping at Gesu for mass, then the Trastevere for lunch, then the Vatican, then shopping in the centro.
Finally, we headed back to our hostel, recollected our things, and caught tot the train to Assisi.
It was a tiring and rushed visit to Rome, but Kathy agreed that it was worth it. She had never been to Europe before, and it was good for her to see a bit before we retreated to the Umbrian countryside.
We had some trouble meeting up in the airport. When I got to Rome, I gathered my baggage and then headed over to Kathy's terminal (we flew separately) to meet her at her baggage claim.
Now begins a typical tale of European inefficiency and ridiculousness. I arrived outside the baggage claim to the sight of bright red signs declaring that no one could enter. I couldn't even see inside, because the glass sliding doors had been painted an opaque gray. What risk they thought I would pose to the baggage, I do not know.
I had told Kathy to wait for me right next to her carousel, and like a good little sister, she did just that. For two hours. While I waited outside. I tried to sneak in, but the policeman caught me and had zero sympathy for my situation.
Kathy and I had no way of contacting each other, so all my tactic was pure stubborness - I stood outside those sliding doors and stared at the policeman each time they opened. For two hours. And guess what? I broke him down. He finally let me in, and I immediately found Kathy.
Ridiculous.
After that, we had a long and difficult journey to our hostel from the airport. We were so tired, and navigating the train, the left luggage, the atms, and the map was almost more than we could handle.
But we persevered and made it safe and sound to our hostel, near the Termini train station. I took Kathy out that night to see the Trevi fountain and the Coliseum and to try some gelato.
The next day, we went on a walking tour of the city, stopping at Gesu for mass, then the Trastevere for lunch, then the Vatican, then shopping in the centro.
Finally, we headed back to our hostel, recollected our things, and caught tot the train to Assisi.
It was a tiring and rushed visit to Rome, but Kathy agreed that it was worth it. She had never been to Europe before, and it was good for her to see a bit before we retreated to the Umbrian countryside.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
The Interim
Getting back to the USA was such a relief!
Of course, I miss France and Angers, but as soon as I stepped off the plane at JFK and heard good old American accents, I felt a rush of joy and just wanted to laugh. I was home!
And then... to be back on the west coast... with my family in Washington... in the clean air, surrounded by mountains and rivers... this is my place.
I caught up with a few friends, but I spent most of the time with my family, driving my brother to swim practice, discussing life with my dad, and helping my mom, aunt, and grandma with my aunt's book-signing at the local Barnes & Nobles.
I only had ten days at home, and then I left to go my Grandma's house in Spokane. Packing was a nightmare, especially since I had to pack for school in the fall at the same time as I was packing for Italy.
We spent one day out at the lake house, which I needed. This is my favorite place in the whole world - here I can just let go and breathe.
And then... I was off again, on more crazy adventures!
I visited Lilly and Tess, Mai and Kayla, and a few other Domers who are interning in NYC. I stayed in Harlem (scary!) and spent a lot of time in Central Park, the Village, and the area around Columbia University. I saw the church of St. John the Divine, where many of my favorite authors are buried (of particular importance, Madeleine L'Engle), and we even had a mini symposium at a fabulous Greek restaurant called, naturally, Symposium.
I had one crazy night where I ended up walking, alone, in the middle of a torrential rainstorm, at 1 AM at morning, lost, through the middle of Harlem. I'll let that description stand by itself, except to say that obviously, I survived unscathed.
And then... off again, to the motherland!
Of course, I miss France and Angers, but as soon as I stepped off the plane at JFK and heard good old American accents, I felt a rush of joy and just wanted to laugh. I was home!
And then... to be back on the west coast... with my family in Washington... in the clean air, surrounded by mountains and rivers... this is my place.
I caught up with a few friends, but I spent most of the time with my family, driving my brother to swim practice, discussing life with my dad, and helping my mom, aunt, and grandma with my aunt's book-signing at the local Barnes & Nobles.
I only had ten days at home, and then I left to go my Grandma's house in Spokane. Packing was a nightmare, especially since I had to pack for school in the fall at the same time as I was packing for Italy.
We spent one day out at the lake house, which I needed. This is my favorite place in the whole world - here I can just let go and breathe.
And then... I was off again, on more crazy adventures!
I visited Lilly and Tess, Mai and Kayla, and a few other Domers who are interning in NYC. I stayed in Harlem (scary!) and spent a lot of time in Central Park, the Village, and the area around Columbia University. I saw the church of St. John the Divine, where many of my favorite authors are buried (of particular importance, Madeleine L'Engle), and we even had a mini symposium at a fabulous Greek restaurant called, naturally, Symposium.
I had one crazy night where I ended up walking, alone, in the middle of a torrential rainstorm, at 1 AM at morning, lost, through the middle of Harlem. I'll let that description stand by itself, except to say that obviously, I survived unscathed.
And then... off again, to the motherland!
The Final, Halcyon Days
My last days in Angers were busy, but it was a good kind of busy. I spent my time making memories, conscious at every moment that my time in France was drawing to a close.
I spent most of my time outside, since the weather was beautiful and Angers was at its best, full of flowers.
I usually caught a ride on the back of a friend's bicycle to the park...
Hanging out at the gazebo by the fontaine...
Or spending afternoons reading Iris Murdoch from the Bibliotheque Anglophone in the Jardin des Plantes.
There were so many lasts...
We had our last day of class, and my Langue class had a fête. We all brought foods from our many different countries, and we played pictionary. I brought chocolate chip cookies, my professor baked a quiche, and the Asian students brought a variety of Vietnamese candies, spring rolls, and noodles.
We had our last Tuesday lunch as a group:

We barbecued in the park, potluck style, for a last get-together. Dishes included hamburgers, s'mores, probably ten different kinds of cookies, chicken-flavored potato chips, zucchini bread, and a whole roasted rabbit.
We went out for one last fancy meal. I spent 50 euro, or about 70 dollars, on a salmon entrée, roasted lamb, cheese, wine, a chocolate platter, and coffee. No worries, the money was reimbursed by our dear (yeah whatever) director.
We spent one last night on the chateau steps, during which a mob of drunken French people tried to talk to us. Apparently they were in town for a conference...
Au revoir, Angers! I will miss this town more and more as time goes by, and it already feels like I left half of myself behind.
The boulevards, the patisseries, the flowers, the Catho, the cafes, the parks and gardens, the cathedrale, the fountains, the chateau, the friends... It was a very different life, and now it's passed, like a dream.
Au revoir, Sundef 44!
I spent most of my time outside, since the weather was beautiful and Angers was at its best, full of flowers.
I usually caught a ride on the back of a friend's bicycle to the park...
Hanging out at the gazebo by the fontaine...
Or spending afternoons reading Iris Murdoch from the Bibliotheque Anglophone in the Jardin des Plantes.
There were so many lasts...
We had our last day of class, and my Langue class had a fête. We all brought foods from our many different countries, and we played pictionary. I brought chocolate chip cookies, my professor baked a quiche, and the Asian students brought a variety of Vietnamese candies, spring rolls, and noodles.

We barbecued in the park, potluck style, for a last get-together. Dishes included hamburgers, s'mores, probably ten different kinds of cookies, chicken-flavored potato chips, zucchini bread, and a whole roasted rabbit.
We went out for one last fancy meal. I spent 50 euro, or about 70 dollars, on a salmon entrée, roasted lamb, cheese, wine, a chocolate platter, and coffee. No worries, the money was reimbursed by our dear (yeah whatever) director.
We spent one last night on the chateau steps, during which a mob of drunken French people tried to talk to us. Apparently they were in town for a conference...
Packing took forever, and I left my house early on a Saturday morning to board our bus to the airport, walking down the creaky staircase one final time.
Au revoir, Angers! I will miss this town more and more as time goes by, and it already feels like I left half of myself behind.
The boulevards, the patisseries, the flowers, the Catho, the cafes, the parks and gardens, the cathedrale, the fountains, the chateau, the friends... It was a very different life, and now it's passed, like a dream.
Au revoir, Sundef 44!
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Les Macarons d'Angers
I refused to try these little beauties all semester, because, well, they looked so small and artificial. Why, I asked myself, would I spend 1,50 euros on one macaron when I could buy a gigantic pastry for the same amount?
Well, I learned my lesson at Laduree in Paris. Each macaron packs so much flavor and texture... it is really is unbelievable. And they are so rich!
However, Laduree's designer macarons can't compare to the personally-crafted Louvigny macarons found just ten minutes from my house in Angers.
This chocolaterie is run by a young man and his Japanese wife. They met at culinary school, and now they make chocolate and macarons together everyday... how cute!
They are such nice people; they talk to us about the macarons and give us free chocolate. I tried Earl Gray chocolate... yes like the tea... and it was delicious.
I found the place because my friend Katrina goes to the place every single day. Literally. Every single day. That's how good they are.
I got apricot-rosemary and cafe... heaven!
Highlight of my week was when I was standing outside Ali Baba's on Rue Bressigny and Monsieur Louvigny, walking past with his wife, saw me and said bonjour! It was like being recognized by a celebrity.
Well, I learned my lesson at Laduree in Paris. Each macaron packs so much flavor and texture... it is really is unbelievable. And they are so rich!
However, Laduree's designer macarons can't compare to the personally-crafted Louvigny macarons found just ten minutes from my house in Angers.
This chocolaterie is run by a young man and his Japanese wife. They met at culinary school, and now they make chocolate and macarons together everyday... how cute!
They are such nice people; they talk to us about the macarons and give us free chocolate. I tried Earl Gray chocolate... yes like the tea... and it was delicious.
I found the place because my friend Katrina goes to the place every single day. Literally. Every single day. That's how good they are.
I got apricot-rosemary and cafe... heaven!
Highlight of my week was when I was standing outside Ali Baba's on Rue Bressigny and Monsieur Louvigny, walking past with his wife, saw me and said bonjour! It was like being recognized by a celebrity.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Plus de Videos
Videos from Italy, Spain, and Paris. Sorry for the bad filming at the bullfight... it's hard when your camera's screen doesn't work.
Italy - - - - - - - - - - - -
Spain - - - - - - - - - - - -
Paris - - - - - - - - - - -
Italy - - - - - - - - - - - -
Spain - - - - - - - - - - - -
Paris - - - - - - - - - - -
Paris Encore
My last time in Paris... I can't believe it. I've spent so much time getting to know this city, and it's become a part of who I am. I am not ready to leave it behind, not knowing when (or even if) I will return.
I spent most of the weekend with my friend Kayla, who studied in Dublin, and her wonderful Texan family. It was their first time in Paris, so I took it upon myself to show them around. I think I succeeded in making the girls love it almost as much as I do.
After seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night, Kayla told me, "I finally understand what you meant when you said that Paris is magical."
We ate dinner the first night at Place des Vosges, a beautiful square in the Marais. I tried both steak tartar and escargot. And I liked both.
We went back to my favorite church, Saint-Etienne, we ate fresh galettes from my favorite street vendor, we visited the Jardin de Luxembourg, and we made an afternoon trip to Versailles.
I hated, HATED, detested, felt sick, couldn't stand, ne peut pas supporter, the inside of that palace. Too many people in too small a space. However, the gardens were gorgeous... so big! It is impossible to convey the sheer size of the place until you see it for yourself.
I slept each night with my friend Julie, who is studying at Sciences Po in Paris, and I got to stay in her apartment (which I just accidentally spelled apartement... proof that I now think in French), which was a nice change.
Each night, we went out to drink by the Seine. The first night, we went to Julie's French friend's birthday gathering on the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge just after the Ile de la Cite which is crowded from end to end with jeunes Parisians drinking and picnicking and watching the sunset over the river and the Tour Eiffel.
It was a good trip, but I still left so much undone. I need more time in this city... I can feel myself fitting into it, finding my place, and leaving is so hard.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)