Frank (aka Francesco) is my aunt's eccentric Italian friend who lives nearby. He took us out for an adventure in his little silver convertible.
I wasn't feeling too well at the start of the day (my aunt and I had gone to church in Assisi, which was hot and packed with tourists), and I had decided not to come on the planned trip to Gubbio. Frank met us at the giardinetti in Assisi and the following conversation ensued, word for word.
Me: I"m sorry, I'm really tired, I don't think I can go.
Frank: What?! Why!?
Me: ... I'm tired.
Frank: Maria, you can't do this to me!
Me: ...
Frank: You can't!
Me: ... Besides, I've already been to Gubbio.
Frank: We're not going to Gubbio!!!!
Me: ... Where are we going?
Frank: The CAVES OF FRASASSI!!!!! This will be like nothing you have ever seen! It will be the BEST DAY OF YOUR LIFE!
How could I argue with this? I caved (ha. ha.) and went along for the ride. It might not have been the BEST DAY OF MY LIFE, but I have to admit, it was pretty good.
We drove leisurely through the mountains, the convertible top down and the sunny wind blowing through my hair. The caves were amazing - unlike anything I had ever seen before - mysterious and awe-inspiring. The silence, the cold, the immense space in the caverns, the frozen mirror-reflections of stalactites and stalagmites, the dramatic lighting, and strange, distant echoes of sounds made a strong impression on me.
On our way home, we stopped for dinner at a tiny mountain-top village called Genge. We ate at this wonderful restaurant: http://www.locandadelpapa.it/gallery.html. It was lovely!
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Daytrip with Elisa
Elisa, who is about my age, lives in Assisi and works for a museum there. She is learning English, and we work together a few times a week. She's reading Edgar Allen Poe right now, which had been a great excuse for my to rediscover stories like The Red Death that terrified me when I was in grade school.
We went on daytrip together to Orvieto, so that Elisa could practice being an English tour guide (and also just for fun). Elisa picked me up at 11, and we drove to her boyfriend's farm, which he owns with his two older brothers. We sampled their home-made sausage and salami, and drank some cold white wine. Delicious!
After the hour's drive to Orvieto, we wandered up and down the narrow streets, seeing everything worth seeing (except the underground Etruscan city, which I would definitely like to see in the future...). The cathedral, Saint Patrick's Well, the rocca (which has been turned into a public garden), the many churches, all so beautiful.
Orvieto is a medieval town, built on the top of cliff. It is tiny and reminded me a lot of Toledo. There are many good shops and wonderful gelateria by the cathedral.
We're planning more daytrips like this, maybe to Lake Trasimeno or some of the other small towns nearby.
We went on daytrip together to Orvieto, so that Elisa could practice being an English tour guide (and also just for fun). Elisa picked me up at 11, and we drove to her boyfriend's farm, which he owns with his two older brothers. We sampled their home-made sausage and salami, and drank some cold white wine. Delicious!
After the hour's drive to Orvieto, we wandered up and down the narrow streets, seeing everything worth seeing (except the underground Etruscan city, which I would definitely like to see in the future...). The cathedral, Saint Patrick's Well, the rocca (which has been turned into a public garden), the many churches, all so beautiful.
Orvieto is a medieval town, built on the top of cliff. It is tiny and reminded me a lot of Toledo. There are many good shops and wonderful gelateria by the cathedral.
We're planning more daytrips like this, maybe to Lake Trasimeno or some of the other small towns nearby.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Visits
My cousin and his wife visited for two nights. They are from NYC and on their honeymoon. I was very happy to see them! They are both tall and beautiful, always clad in black, and I felt like I was in the company of two celebrities.
I picked them up at the station, and they had a good sleep at the house before venturing out the next morning to see Assisi.
We had a lunch at a terrace restaurant with amazing views.
We visited a few of the many churches in Assisi and bought some souvenirs in the Basilica. The weather was crazy. Sitting on the stone front of Santa Chiara, Zenon and I soaked up the bright sun while scattered rain drops fell on us and polkadotted the piazza. Clouds hurried across the vista, their shadows rushing below, lighting and darkening the land. Looking up at the Rocca, bright white against black clouds, we could see it fall into shadow and then brighten again. Magnificent.
We made dinner at home, a wonderful tomato pasta by my cousin, along with salad from the garden, stuffed tomato appetizers from the market, Umbrian white wine, and German chocolate. Yum.
I picked them up at the station, and they had a good sleep at the house before venturing out the next morning to see Assisi.
We had a lunch at a terrace restaurant with amazing views.
We visited a few of the many churches in Assisi and bought some souvenirs in the Basilica. The weather was crazy. Sitting on the stone front of Santa Chiara, Zenon and I soaked up the bright sun while scattered rain drops fell on us and polkadotted the piazza. Clouds hurried across the vista, their shadows rushing below, lighting and darkening the land. Looking up at the Rocca, bright white against black clouds, we could see it fall into shadow and then brighten again. Magnificent.
We made dinner at home, a wonderful tomato pasta by my cousin, along with salad from the garden, stuffed tomato appetizers from the market, Umbrian white wine, and German chocolate. Yum.
The Daily Run
Running on a mountain is hard work, but it pays off. If I run far enough, I'm rewarded with the most beautiful views, looking out across valleys and hills, with their golden villas and thick forests, towards distant mountains and glorious sunsets.
I run up and down so many hills that I've finally become used to them. There are two in particular that are very difficult, but they add a challenge that I like. One comes right at the end of my run, which forces me, out of pride, to always finish strong.
I run through thick forest, meadows, and hayfields. Sometimes I will encounter a group of white cattle or sheep with lambs in tow, their bells clinking in the soft evening air.
Puppy likes to run with me, although she has a hard time keeping up. When I get back to the house, we like to play together. I chase her until she rolls onto her back and I can pet her, then she darts away again.
I stretch in front of the house, bathed in the sunset light, looking down from our mountain top across an open field and then out, out, out, into the hills and mountains and sky.
I run up and down so many hills that I've finally become used to them. There are two in particular that are very difficult, but they add a challenge that I like. One comes right at the end of my run, which forces me, out of pride, to always finish strong.
I run through thick forest, meadows, and hayfields. Sometimes I will encounter a group of white cattle or sheep with lambs in tow, their bells clinking in the soft evening air.
Puppy likes to run with me, although she has a hard time keeping up. When I get back to the house, we like to play together. I chase her until she rolls onto her back and I can pet her, then she darts away again.
I stretch in front of the house, bathed in the sunset light, looking down from our mountain top across an open field and then out, out, out, into the hills and mountains and sky.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
A Good Day
What did I do yesterday? A little bit of everything.
8
Woke up and ate breakfast of espresso and yogurt.
8-9
Worked in the garden, planting and weeding and watering, with Puppy standing guard.
9-11
Cleaned the house, aired everything out, made everything pretty and nice and organized Maria-fashion.
11
Lunch of omelette with broccoli and pancetta.
11-12
Long walk with Puppy, picking flowers and arranging bouquets for the house.
12-2
Finished reading Changing, Liv Ullman's autobiography. So good!
2-5
Drove down to Assisi and wandered through the different churches, sketching statues, frescoes, and buildings. Had my picture taken by an Asian girl who thought I was artistic. Went grocery shopping and bought fruit and vegetables and cereal!
5-8
Cleaned some more and cooked pasta and potatoes and made a salad and sang loudly to Vienna Teng.
8-9
Worked in the garden again, taming all the tomatoes.
9-11
Drove to the station to pick up the visitors.
Perfect day.
8
Woke up and ate breakfast of espresso and yogurt.
8-9
Worked in the garden, planting and weeding and watering, with Puppy standing guard.
9-11
Cleaned the house, aired everything out, made everything pretty and nice and organized Maria-fashion.
11
Lunch of omelette with broccoli and pancetta.
11-12
Long walk with Puppy, picking flowers and arranging bouquets for the house.
12-2
Finished reading Changing, Liv Ullman's autobiography. So good!
2-5
Drove down to Assisi and wandered through the different churches, sketching statues, frescoes, and buildings. Had my picture taken by an Asian girl who thought I was artistic. Went grocery shopping and bought fruit and vegetables and cereal!
5-8
Cleaned some more and cooked pasta and potatoes and made a salad and sang loudly to Vienna Teng.
8-9
Worked in the garden again, taming all the tomatoes.
9-11
Drove to the station to pick up the visitors.
Perfect day.
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Cooking with Paula
Jenny hired an Italian chef to cook for us during the program. Paula lives in Santa Maria degli Angeli, and she came every weekday during the program to concoct delicacies like lemon pasta, zucchini fritters, and almond cookies.
She needed all the help she could get to feed the crowd of students, teachers, family, and friends that gathered for lunch each day. Kathy was always in the kitchen, and we would all drop in during the day to lend a hand and steal a taste of whatever was cooking. Delicious...
I think my favorite dessert was the panna cotta, a plain custard topped with frozen berries:
The Rocca of Assisi
Many Italian towns, especially in Umbria and Tuscany, have a palace (really a castle) built on the highest point of the town, called the Rocca. Assisi's is particularly striking, and has a long history (Saint Francis helped attack it with his fellow citizens of the lower town).
We went to the Rocca during our first week here. We climbed up the many winding staircases (which Kathy was afraid to climb), explored the long, narrow passageways, and discovered some fabulous views from the top of the towers.
Behind me is the Basilica di San Francesco, seen from a great great height:
I love running around these castles like a little kid, imagining how it would be to play a massive game of hide and seek or laser-tag. So magic.
We went to the Rocca during our first week here. We climbed up the many winding staircases (which Kathy was afraid to climb), explored the long, narrow passageways, and discovered some fabulous views from the top of the towers.
Behind me is the Basilica di San Francesco, seen from a great great height:
I love running around these castles like a little kid, imagining how it would be to play a massive game of hide and seek or laser-tag. So magic.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Estathe Means Summer
I feel it is only just that I dedicate a post to Estathe. It has saved my life multiple times.
Estathe, a play on words literally meaning "summer tea," is solved in every bar and alimentari. A small cup of strong, iced tea, it is the perfect thing to relieve the heat when walking up and down hilly cobblestoned streets under the beating Italian sun. The straw is thin, so you can only take small sips, making the tea last longer and be more satisfying.
We learned about Estathe from our classy Italian friend Alessia. We spotted her carrying one in town and had to know what it was. She always has one on hand, and is very annoyed if anything deprives her of her cold treat.
We love Estathe. ♥
Estathe, a play on words literally meaning "summer tea," is solved in every bar and alimentari. A small cup of strong, iced tea, it is the perfect thing to relieve the heat when walking up and down hilly cobblestoned streets under the beating Italian sun. The straw is thin, so you can only take small sips, making the tea last longer and be more satisfying.
We learned about Estathe from our classy Italian friend Alessia. We spotted her carrying one in town and had to know what it was. She always has one on hand, and is very annoyed if anything deprives her of her cold treat.
We love Estathe. ♥
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