Solo in Espana

So... I was supposed to go to Morocco for Ascension weekend, but my travel companions both backed out at the last minute. I was left holding non-refundable tickets, but luckily, they included a stopover in Madrid.

I couldn't waste the tickets, and after coming to the difficult realization that maybe, just maybe, it wasn't a good idea to go to Morocco by myself, I decided to head to Spain, alone.

I speak no Spanish and it was my first time traveling solo, but what the heck. I survived.

I stayed in three different hostels in Madrid (because the ash cloud scared me from booking ahead of time). Luckily, I made friends everywhere I went, and I never had to walk around Madrid alone. I spoke Italian to the Spaniards, and they understood me, and I usually understood them.

I even went to a bullfight!

And before you judge... If you have never seen one, you cannot understand. It was beautiful.

Spanish food is great, if you don't mind that it's all fried. Lots of potatoes, eggs, and of course, ham. Ham everywhere. 

Notice the ham in that picture (hint: it's hanging from the ceiling). I am sitting in a Museo del Jamon chain restaurant, enjoying wine, bread, and paella.

I also had chocolate and churros at the famous San Gines. So. Good.

And the best part? In Spain, they have this crazy good custom of serving tapas (snacks) with every drink you buy. So when you get hungry, you order sangria and eat free smoked salmon sandwiches. I got used to this way too quickly.

After Madrid, I took a bus to the beautiful, medieval, town-on-a-hill Toledo, where I met my friend Lilly, who is fluent in Spanish and has lived in Toledo all semester. Perfect guide.

We stayed for free at the Opus Dei house on the first night, and the second night I stayed in this hostel which, oh yes, is a castle, and which, oh yes, El Cid himself frequented.

That's my window on the top left. I had an amazing view of the entire hill of Toledo, with the Alcazar (castle turned library) shining at night. I also spent the night with three old German women, but that's another story.

Lilly and I had way too many tapas, wandered the ramparts of the town, went to mass at the famous cathedral, and shopped for knives and damascene jewelry.

Lilly had to leave before me, so I spent one day alone in Toledo. I sat on the main plaza, sketching and people-watching while enjoying a pastry.

I then slowly made my way back to Madrid, where I spent the last night of the weekend. I went for a long walk before it got dark, and said goodbye to my favorite spot - the Crystal Palace in the Retiro Gardens. And of course, ate a ham sandwich.

And then it was back to Angers! I nearly got murdered on my way to the metro at 6am, but ah, well... I survived. This girl is strong and can look really mean when she wants to.

Overall, I loved Toledo and enjoyed myself in Madrid, but I wouldn't go back to Madrid. It is much smaller (at least the walkable center) than Paris, and I ran out of sites to see after the first day. Going out at night was fun, but the city itself didn't have as much character as the other cities I've visited.

However, my mission was a success. I traveled alone and enjoyed it. Triumph of Maria over train schedules, ash clouds, creepy men, low bank account, and language barriers! Ouaaaiii.